Second lead world cup took place in french Chamonix. City with a really stunning scenery and awesome venue location. We arrived there straight after LWC Villars and stayed there for some training in between world cups.
This post is a bit longer that usually so if you want to read just about the reflections on the competition skip to the last section. I would also love to get your feedback about the length of my posts! Are they to long, to short, or just about right?? Hit me up in the comments.
Speed qualifications
Similarly to Villars, everything started with speed competition on Thursday. I was feeling great that day and I was psyched to try to beat my personal best. Even the speed wall was official, which means it was eligible for new speed world record. “Interesting fact: in a normal speed world cup circuit there are “non-eligible” speed climbing walls than there are “eligible” ones. That is disturbing! “
Nevertheless there was a problem with friction on the wall. Wall almost had no friction and was therefore really slippery and that was a huge downside. You could see so many good speed climbers simply slip and lose their chance of advancing into next round.
Currently the only two things standardized are the angle of the wall and the holds. But for the future competitions I think that there should some sort of restriction for the friction aswell.
On the other hand, the conditions were the same for everyone. Not meant as a complaint but merely a suggestion for the future competitions.
With many of the really good climbers slipping on the wall, so was I. It felt really hard to get back in the flow after every slip. But hey, that is the part of the game and as I am not a good speed climber – yet. It was though a really good warming up for the lead competition next day.
Lead qualifications
This is the competition for which I really had mixed feelings. I was surely feeling a bit down after Villars, but was excited at the same time to perform better and really show myself that I can climb good.
With that being said, I am going to dive straight into the world cup action and later reflect on the performance.
Like always in a lead world cup, there are two routes for the qualification round. My starting numbers were 53 & 110. Therefore I started with my first route at 13:00.
First route
The first route didn’t go too well for me, as I cruized to the crux section and then just fell off for a stupid mistake. I wasn’t confident in my climbing so on tthe crux section I decided to skip a hold in order to get one more height securely and after that I had nothing else to do than just jump to get that “+”. I should have gone for the more risky move, which would allow me to continue climbing the route.
Second route was on right at the end of the day and I was tired of waiting and keeping myself warmed-up throughout the day. This is the thing that is most different from the bouldering and I still need to get used of it.
Second route
Anyway second route didn’t go so bad, although the result was worse than in the first one. I managed to actually climb and get pumped before falling off and I was happy for that. With only some small mistakes, this was not my worst climb.
Sadly that was again it for me at another lead world cup. Finishing in qualification round was the last thing I was expecting.
Reflecting on the competition
In this section I am going to go over everything that happened during the competition. I am going to focus on the things that were bothering me or were okay during the competition.
Like I said before I was feeling a bit down, after Villars. I think that I really invested a lot of time into speed and lead training and there were no results. That is the main reason, why I was disappointed. The same thing happened again in Chamonix and this time I don’t know if I really am in bad shape or just my head is not in the right place
Therefore after coming back home from Chamonix, I’ve decided to skip next lead world cup in Briancon. In the mean time I am going to try to focus on the world championships in Tokyo.
I really think that I just need some time back home. Skipping the next world cup is going to give me some time to rest and prepare my head for the next competition. Overall I think that I pressured myself with the Olympic games too much and consequenlty wasn’t enjoying climbing as much as I should…
Right now I am happy to be back home and with a few days rest I am feeling confident that I will come back stronger. Both mentally and physically.
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